29 October 2010

From the Top

Two entities close to my heart are at the top of their respective fields!


The Auburn Tigers:
Ranked NUMBER ONE in the BCS standings. War Eagle, y’all. 

Here are guests in the president's box from this season's opening game, preparing to sing the national anthem before kickoff.  It's hard to believe how far we've come since that song!



International Justice Mission:
Ranked NUMBER ONE in U.S. News & World Report’s profile of Ten Service Groups Making a Difference.



U.S. News's readership exceeds 11 million.  What coverage!  Please pray that some among those 11 million readers will be moved to learn more about social justice, to give and to act; and that this accolade will encourage IJM staff members around the world.

24 October 2010

Southern Mirage?


 

Somehow I doubt Harper Lee ever spent much time in this region.  Nonetheless, I am taken daily by the number of parallels between the life I see in contemporary South Asia and that of Depression-era South Alabama described in To Kill A Mockingbird.  There is certainly a chance that I’m grasping for straws, swimming in a cesspit of ethnocentrism.  (Let me know if you think so.)  But I think about this every day.  Here are Lee’s lines that come to mind most frequently:



“Maycomb was an old town, but it was a tired old town when I first knew it.  In rainy weather the streets turned to red slop; grass grew on sidewalks, the courthouse sagged in the square.  Somehow, it was hotter then: a black dog suffered on a summer's day; bony mules hitched to Hoover carts flicked flies in the sweltering shade of the live oaks on the square.  Men's stiff collars wilted by nine in the morning.  Ladies bathed before noon, after their three-o'clock naps, and by nightfall were like soft teacakes with frostings of sweat and sweet talcum.”

Rain is bountiful here and the streets do, indeed, turn to red slop.  I’ve got the stains on my pants legs to prove it.  Grass does grow on sidewalks, and nearly every building sags a little.  Dogs pant in alleys, attempting to cool themselves amidst the fervent heat, and bony bovines (okay, not quite mules) saunter the streets dodging flies.  I don’t see many men with collars outside my office, but those observed do wilt quickly.  And as for the soft teacakes..let’s just say that “frostings of sweat” would be a generous portrayal.

I've heard remarks of this city being in a "perpetual state of photogenic decay."  That's about the best characterization I've heard.  The colors are beautiful when not covered in dirt, but almost everything is usually covered in dirt.  The streets are filled with trash, idols are worshiped on every block, and somehow nearly everything smells like...burnt mildew?



"There was no hurry, for there was nowhere to go, nothing to buy and no money to buy it with; nothing to see outside the boundaries of Maycomb County.  But it was a time of vague optimism for some of the people: Maycomb County had recently been told that it had nothing to fear but fear itself."

In South Asia (in my state, at least) everyone who isn't filthy rich is solely filthy.  There is no middle class here- no middle class, at least, that you or I would recognize.  The poverty is astounding. Men, women and children alike beg on nearly every corner.

In the midst of all this squalor, dirt and mildew there is an underlying hope and excitement about the nation.  Huge democracy.  Big potential in the international affairs realm.  Lots of weight to throw around.  Economy looking good for those who are sufficiently well off to take notice.  “Vague optimism” is the perfect term.  There may be more to fear than fear, but things are looking up.



"The day was 24 hours long, but it seemed longer.”

Time moves in an odd fashion here. Days individually seem to move at a slothful pace but the weeks seem to pass in an instant.



“Atticus said to Jem, ‘I'd rather you shot at tin cans in the back yard, but I know you'll go after birds.  Shoot all the bluejays you want, if you can hit 'em, but remember it's a sin to kill a mockingbird.’  That was the only time I ever hear Atticus say it was a sin to do something, and I asked Miss Maudie about it.  ‘You're father's right,’ she said.  ‘Mockingbirds don't do one thing but make music for us to enjoy.  They don't eat up people's gardens, don't nest in corncribs, they don't do one thing but sing their hearts out for us.  That's why it's a sin to kill a mocking bird.’"

On two occasions now I’ve been allowed to spend time with some of the girls rescued by IJM.   Looking at them, it’s hard to understand how anyone ever sold them into sexual slavery— how anyone could have done anything but cherish them, send them to school, and dream tremendous dreams on their behalf.  They are beautiful, brilliant, and on the road to recovery from a dark and twisted world they never chose to enter. 

These girls are like mockingbirds.  They never deserved what was given to them, nor did they deserve to lose what was taken from them.  Those who enslaved them did so in sin, plain and simple.  By God’s grace, through his mighty hand and his outstretched arm, he is working through his people to bring justice to his daughters.  I am honored to be of any service to the men and women working here for IJM.  They risk their lives to fulfill the Lord’s desire for these girls’ freedom.  Their faith is moving mountains, embodying Harper Lee’s definition of courage.



"I wanted you to see what real courage is, instead of getting the idea that courage is a man with a gun in his hand.  It's when you know you're licked before you begin but you begin anyway and you see it through no matter what."



18 October 2010

Also.

A few days ago I played with a monkey in the street.


The monkey spoke to me:

"Cam Newton for Heisman."

Speaking of fantastic things, the Auburn Tigers are now 7-0, fourth in the nation by BCS rankings.  LSU comes to Jordan-Hare Stadium this Saturday at 3:30 EST/ 2:30CST.  They're undefeated as well.  Please watch a little ESPN for me.

Sharpie. Stat.



As a child I enjoyed scouring the pages of National Geographic for foreign stories and exotic photographs of plants and natives.  My mother kept the latter in check, beating me to the magazines with a Sharpie marker.  Dutifully, she drew clothes atop every nude tribal person.  (Sometimes the outfits were delightfully intricate, leading me to wonder how much of the act was ever about me, and how much was about some needed artistic outlet of hers.)  At the time I was a bit miffed but looking back I appreciate the gesture and have since learned that mine was not the only Sharpie-wielding momma.


This weekend I realized how accustomed I had become to those Sharpie outfits.

My boss allowed me to accompany him to a village near our neighborhood.  He visits on Sunday afternoons, giving candy to children and taking pictures of families.  It’s a ministry of his.  The following weekend he returns with printed pictures to distribute.  The families love it!  Those who recognize him come running into the street when they see him approaching.  Girls don their best dresses, boys grab their toys, and mothers thrust their youngsters out for us to hold…

naked.

And we’re not talking infants.  I hadn’t thought of my mother’s Sharpie patrol in a good while, but when suddenly face to face with naked strangers, it was all I could think about.  I wanted a Sharpie, and I wanted it bad.  Quickly I realized that such a notion was out of the question.

I can’t cover anything up out here.  There’s no sugar coating the toddler tied to an iron fence a block from my office,



 no wishing away the putrid trash through which stray animals dig for scraps,

 

and most certainly no covering up the naked children in village streets.  Some of the sights are unpalatable only to a Western taste.  Others, though, are simply inhumane.  Either way I am realizing how much joy the poorest of the poor here take in simple things:

toy telephones,


clean clothes,


level roads,


makeshift capes,


baths,


foreign men with big cameras and even bigger hearts, 


or an opportunity to shake hands and practice a bit of English over a piece of toffee.


 (These children were so diplomatic!)







Here's to them.

03 October 2010

Traffic

Today I took a cab home from church.  I was tired and didn't trust my own judgment entirely, but I could've sworn I saw a man riding an elephant in the street.


 I did a double take, and as I grew closer discovered that it was, in fact, an elephant parading through.


This elephant made me think of the University of Alabama, which of course was a wretched thought for Sabbath, so I turned my thoughts to Auburn.  Did anyone see that game?!  I couldn't find a way to view it so I kept up with ESPN's digital play-by-play.  52-3, friends!  War Eagle.

02 October 2010

First week

I've arrived and have lasted one week.

Jet leg hasn't been much of an issue (likely because I took my time circling the globe- that three day British pit stop was an excellent idea) and culture shock hasn't been too trying either.  More than anything, I've struggled with the smell here.  After a few days struggling to eat from my olfactory glands' dismay with the new air, I went to a local supermarket and procured an air freshener.  The scent?


Florida Sunshine.  I almost broke down in tears out of pure joy!  (I must say, while I've never thought to put a smell to "Florida sunshine," I can't say that this hits the mark.  Regardless, mere mention of home was delightful.

After about five days in town I resumed eating regular meals.  My first attempt in my new kitchen, French toast, tasted fine.  

 
The aesthetic appeal will improve as I grow accustomed to novel kitchen appliances.  (Here's to hoping, at the least.)


I'm settling into the office well.  The IJM staff is warm and welcoming, and I've set up shop at my desk:



But none of us can work forever.  Today was my second Saturday in town, and I wasn't about to sit inside.  Laurel, Aimee and I went to a great Western style restaurant today in a part of the city still bearing the marks of British influence.  

 
We had a wonderful meal, then each chose something from the bountiful dessert display.  


  
...I think I'll be getting along here just fine. 


I chose a brownie, which looked nearly identical to the ones we love at Chick-fil-a!

The rest of the day was spent leisurely perusing the city.  Most locals are busy getting ready for a holiday season.  This means that makeshift monuments and shrines are being built on nearly every street.  I passed a few men putting one up here:


With the holiday season come retail sales, same as home.  These bring shoppers into the city in droves.  Extra shoppers means extra assertive child beggars in traffic.














These boys were just a few years old.  Wearing next to nothing, they fearlessly darted between cars when traffic halted and knocked on windows asking for money.
  

Here are other sights from the city:




Motorcycles are everywhere.  That and scooters.  I'd like to get a scooter for autonomy's sake, but the traffic here is brutal.


Traffic frequently regresses to a game of bumper cars.


These auto-rickshaws are prevalent too.  They're fun for cheap and breezy rides through town.




This man was selling flutes outside the restaurant where we ate today.  He played "My Heart Will Go On" to demonstrate the lyrical depth of the instrument.

KFC.  Sending cardiologists' children to college worldwide.







Abbey Road?  Anybody?


Close enough.



Dogs roam the streets here freely.  Most have no owner and fend for themselves.  They're scrawny and many seem to have mange.





One of the fascinating juxtapositions here is in traffic: retro cabs regularly ride past men on foot pulling cars, avoiding motorcycles, moving alongside Honda and Toyota sedans.



While I can't seem to call it home just yet, the city is becoming more central to my way of thought day by day.